Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
